3 days in Prague with friends: a weekend itinerary

Arrive early, before the tour groups. The main circuit ticket (450 CZK) covers St Vitus Cathedral, the Old Royal Palace, St George's Basilica and Golden Lane, and is valid for two days.

Walk down the Old Castle Steps and eat in one of the pubs around Malostranské náměstí: svíčková or goulash with dumplings and a beer.

A quiet green island under the bridge, then the graffiti wall a few steps away. Free.

Cross towards the Old Town in the late afternoon light, when the statues and the castle behind you look their best.

A big, loud beer hall serving Pilsner Urquell from tanks and simple Czech food. Good for groups; book a table on Friday and Saturday.

Watch the clock strike on the hour, then climb the tower for the view over the square's rooftops.

The combined Jewish Museum ticket (550 CZK) covers the synagogues and the Old Jewish Cemetery. Closed on Saturdays and Jewish holidays, so keep this day flexible.

Open sandwiches (chlebíčky), soups or a quick bistro lunch along Dlouhá, away from the square's tourist prices.

Climb up from the river to the metronome and the long benches of the beer garden, with a view down over all the bridges.

A short tram ride away, Vinohrady has the city's best mix of Czech kitchens, wine bars and international food at local prices.

One of Europe's oldest jazz clubs, on Národní. Check the programme and book seats for the group; cover charges vary by night.

Ride the funicular up from Újezd and walk through the orchards. The lookout tower costs extra if you want to climb it.

Two baroque halls of painted ceilings and old globes (150 CZK). You see them from the doorway, which is part of the charm. Have a beer at the monastery brewery next door.

Take the tram to the old fortress above the river: the cemetery where Dvořák and Mucha are buried, quiet ramparts and a view back to the castle. Free to walk around.

Walk back along the embankment: boats turned into bars, and a farmers' market on Saturday mornings.