4 days in Lisbon with friends: itinerary with a Sintra day trip

Walls, peacocks and the widest view over the city and the river (€15). Open until 9 pm from March to October, so it also works late in the day.

Grilled sardines or bacalhau in a small tasca around Largo de São Miguel. Many have a daily menu at lunch.

Santa Luzia and Portas do Sol, a few steps apart, look over the rooftops down to the Tagus. Free.

Board at the first stop to get a seat. €3.30 on board in cash, or €1.90 with a Navegante card.

Fado houses usually charge a minimum spend instead of a ticket. Book ahead for a group and expect around €40 each with dinner.

The Manueline cloister is the highlight (€18, closed on Mondays). The church is free. Book a time slot: queues can pass an hour in high season.

The original custard tarts, still warm. The queue for takeaway moves fast; there are also big rooms inside.

Past the Monument to the Discoveries to the tower on the water. Going inside costs extra and the stairs are narrow; the outside is the photo.

An old textile factory under the bridge, now restaurants, a huge bookshop and design shops.

A lively viewpoint over the river and the bridge, with a kiosk for a drink.

Petiscos (Portuguese small plates) for dinner, then the narrow streets fill with people drinking outside the bars. Later, Cais do Sodré and Pink Street for clubs.

About 40 minutes, €2.45 each way. Take an early train: Sintra gets very busy from late morning.

Gardens, grottoes and the spiral Initiation Well (€15, timed entry). Walkable from the station through the old town.

Try a travesseiro, the local almond pastry, for dessert.

Take bus 434 up the hill. The park ticket (€12) gets you the gardens and the views of the painted palace from outside; the full palace visit now costs €45 with a fixed time slot, so decide as a group whether it is worth it.

Back in Lisbon, a food hall where everyone can pick something different and share a long table.

A garden viewpoint facing the castle, then the cafés, concept stores and the old cedar of Príncipe Real square.

The yellow funicular on its steep street is one of the city's classic photos. Covered by a 24 hour pass.

Clams à Bulhão Pato, prawns and a bottle of vinho verde to close the trip.

A last walk under the arch and along the water before heading to the airport.