7 days in Split and the islands: a Croatia itinerary for friends

The Roman emperor's palace is the old town itself, free to walk through. The substructures underneath cost about €10 and show the original floor plan.

Built into Diocletian's own mausoleum. The combined ticket includes the bell tower climb and its view over the harbour.

Black risotto, grilled squid or pašticada, the slow-cooked Dalmatian beef stew.

Climb the steps from Varoš to the Vidilica café terrace, about 20 minutes, for the view over the old town and the islands.

Bars spill into the lanes and squares of the old town; the Riva promenade is the place to walk afterwards.

€40 from June to September, including the boat from Skradin to the falls; €30 after 3 pm. Swimming has been banned since 2021, so this is a walking day on the wooden boardwalks.

Skradin risotto, a slow-cooked veal risotto the town is known for, on the harbour.

A stop on the way back for the stone Cathedral of St James, a UNESCO site, and the steep lanes around it.

About an hour, around €25 in summer. Car ferries only go to Stari Grad, on the other side of the island.

The largest square in Dalmatia, with the cathedral at one end and the harbour at the other.

A 20 minute climb through pine trees to the Spanish fortress, with the Pakleni islands spread out below. Best in the late afternoon.

The beach bar on the rocks west of town is where Hvar's evenings start. Expect island prices for cocktails.

Grilled fish and local Plavac Mali wine, then the harbour bars.

Small boats leave from the harbour all morning, around €15 return. Agree the return time with the skipper.

Pine woods, clear water and coves to swim from. Bring water shoes: most beaches here are pebbles and rock.

Island restaurants are pricier than in town, but a shaded table over the sea is the point of the day.

Harbour bars until late, then the clubs. In high season the big nights are on the water: check what is on before you go.

A group tour from Hvar town to the Blue Cave, Stiniva cove and the town of Komiža, usually €80 to €110 without the cave ticket. Private boats for a group of six or more can work out similar per person.

€24 from late June to early September, €18 in the shoulder months. Visits stop when the sea is rough, so keep a spare day in mind.

A fishing town on Vis; try viška pogača, a flat pie with salted fish and onions.

The pebble spit that changes shape with the wind, a 20 minute walk from Bol along the pine promenade. Sunbeds cost extra; windsurf schools rent boards for the afternoon breeze.

Grilled fish or a peka of octopus if you order it ahead.

Back to the konobas of Varoš for a final group dinner.

A medieval fortress on a ridge 20 minutes from Split by bus 22, with a view over the whole coast (about €10 entry). Game of Thrones fans know it as Meereen.

Pick up figs, olive oil or lavender at the Pazar market by the palace walls, then a last coffee by the sea.

Split's sandy town beach, ten minutes from the port. Locals play picigin, a splashing ball game, in the shallows.